Where in the world.....

Day Twelve: Wednesday, 2 September 2015
Zambia Day One: Livingstone Island, Devil's Pool

Taryn, my Dad, Karen, and I headed off for Zambia at 10:30 AM and arrived in Livingstone a quick two hours later.  Livingstone is located on the very south coast of Zambia, immediately across the Falls from Zimbabwe.
The flight was easy-peasy, mostly because South African flights include wine and bubbly!  Upon arrival at the TINY airport we made sure to make a mad dash right to the visa line, because everything is much slower in Africa in general, and we didn't want to get caught up waiting for hours.  Usually two ques form, one for those entering only Zambia, and one for those also traveling into Zimbabwe.  We were staying in Zambia, so our line was much shorter.  $50 USD in cash or credit gets you in the door.  Taryn even paid for my visa for a little early birthday gift - how sweet :)

Our bags arrived quickly, and we made our way to the ATMs before grabbing a cab.  The exchange rate here was about $1 USD to 10.8 kwacha, but the dollar is accepted everywhere from street vendors to the fanciest restaurants.  The distance to our hotel was about a 20 minute drive, and we paid our driver $20.  We definitely could have lowered the price to about $10 or so, but we were excited to get there and feeling in the tipping mood.  Taryn and I took a separate car from my Dad and Karen because we were staying at different hotels - us at the Royal Livingstone, and them at the sister hotel called the Zambezi Sun.
We definitely spoiled ourselves on this leg of the trip.  The Royal Livingstone is the premiere hotel in Livingstone.  It is known for white-glove five star service and accommodations, and is located on the Zambezi River, with Victoria Falls or as the locals call it, Mosi-oa-Tunya, on the edge of the property.  These accommodations weren't cheap at about $550 USD per night, but there are plenty of less expensive and beautiful properties in Livingstone.  The Zambezi Sun costs about $275/night and is also located on this prime spot.  If you were to stay closer to town, you can find very nice hotels for less than $100/night.  Taryn and I chose this property because of the resident giraffe and zebra on the property, the gorgeous sundeck, the 5-minute walk to the Falls, the personal butlers, and the true African luxury 'feel' of the hotel.
As soon as we jumped out of our cab, we were greeted by a hotel host and our luggage was shuttled off.  We were sat down in the gorgeous lounge and provided complimentary cool towels and a hand massage by the spa staff on-site.  While we checked in the luggage was handled and we were given a tour of the property.  We were then escorted to our room and introduced to our personal butler.  It was all a bit fancy and overwhelming, but we enjoyed every second.

After we got settled and changed we immediately headed to the bookings desk to confirm our tours.  We only had two full days in Zambia, and I had planned two exciting tours while we were there - the Livingstone Island and Devil's Pool tour and the Zambezi Sunset Cruise.  Things work differently in Africa, there is no real rush and plans always seem to be tentative.  As someone who likes to plan every detail, this is a frustrating part of traveling in Africa.  We were smart to check right away because although my name was clearly written down for the next day's Livingstone Island tour, there was no actual booking made.  This devastated us because that was the ONE thing we had to do while in Zambia.  Fortunately the woman at the desk was able to check us in last minute to the tour that started in ONE HOUR, and then switch our Zambezi River tour to the next night.  We rushed to our room to quickly grab our bathing suits, cameras, and a change of clothes (oh, who am I kidding - also a bottle of wine!) to meet the tour operator.  Fortunately, the tours started right at our hotel so we didn't have to drive anywhere.

While we waited for our guides and the other two individuals to arrive (there are restrictions on the number of people who can be on the island at one time), we enjoyed a bit of wine and the scenery, while chatting with the bartenders on the sun deck.  We immediately recognized how friendly Zambians were - they were so engaging, always smiling, and ready with a good laugh.

We met our two tour guides and the couple joining us and jumped into a small boat that took us about a 1/4 mile down the river to the very edge of the Falls.  We banked onto the sand and followed a small trail to the  David Livingstone landmark.  David Livingstone is the Scottish missionary and explorer who is believed to have been the first European to view Victoria Falls on 16 November 1855 from what is now known as Livingstone Island.  Dotting the trail was elephant dung - it was everywhere!  We truly were in the wild - it feels unlike anything else knowing that an animal as large as an elephant could be around any corner.
From here, the Falls were just steps away.  While it is neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, it is classified as the largest, based on its width of 5,604 feet and height of 354 feet, resulting in the world's largest sheet of falling water. We were able to sit on the very EDGE of the Falls, dangling our legs over, and pose for photos.  The rainbow shown in photos below is always here!  Taryn and I were a bit choked up here, as we knew we were looking at the same Falls our mom enjoyed while she lived in Livingstone. 
After this photo op we stripped down to our bathing suits and made our way INTO the Zambezi.  We followed the tour guides carefully, and swam a short ways to another small island (which you can see to the right of the people in the Devil's Pool above us in the photo above). 

Location of "Devil's Pool"

Once we got to Devil's Pool, we were able to jump right in! The pool itself is quite deep at points, and there are a ton of small fish swimming about.  The water is icy, but not freezing.  The "smoke that thunders" surrounds you and the sound is incredible.  Swimming on the edge of one of the natural wonders of the world was incredibly exhilarating, but did not seem frightening until I saw the photos afterwards!
After our dip in the world's safest pool (hehe) we were treated to cocktails and appetizers back on the main part of the island.  We were almost too excited to eat!  Then, our tour guides packed us up and dropped us off back at our resort.  We arrived back at the perfect moment to watch the sunset and listen quietly to the sounds of Africa around us, with the mighty Falls in the background.  The sunsets in Africa are to die for, and a must-see - because it is so very dry, a lot of dust can get picked up into the air, resulting in a more orange color to the sky, particularly at sunrise and sunset. 

Cocktails on the Royal Livingstone Sundeck

After a bit of relaxing we headed to the hotel restaurant for dinner.  The hotel was not very busy as it was the slower season when the Falls aren't as strong, so we were seated right away on the patio.  The temperature at night was perfect for eating al fresco.  The hotel restaurant had a very original menu, with dishes from Africa, India, and Europe.  The chef at the restaurant even came out to talk with us personally and offer recommendations.  I tried the kudu curry, with fresh veggies and rice - it was delicious!

While we were eating we noticed that an older man was sitting at the table next to us by himself, so we invited him to join us.  Taryn and I had already enjoyed a bottle of wine, so I am sure we talked this man's ear off but he didn't seem to mind.  We love meeting local people when we travel, and this man was incredibly interesting as he was a Defense Analyst from Botswana.  When we finished our meal, all three of us headed inside to listen to the fantastic pianist who was playing mostly classical pieces.  This is where it got really interesting (courtesy of quite a few glasses of wine).  Taryn started singing along with the pianist, and the whole dining room seemed to be enjoying the music.  Then we chatted with the pianist and the servers, received a tour of the kitchen area and met the kitchen staff.  We bought a drink for the pianist and everyone had a fantastic time - we could not stop laughing.  Zambian people are amazing and so friendly - I will never forget the huge smiles of each person we met that night!
The next day was going to be action-packed, so Taryn and I headed for our room at about midnight.  Because we were quite tipsy, we didn't realize that we were standing RIGHT NEXT to a mom and baby giraffe who were munching on the tree tops just outside of our hotel room door! (Look for the shining eyes below!)

Day Thirteen: Thursday, 3 September 2015
Zambia Day Two: Victoria Falls, Curio Shopping, Zambezi Sunset Cruise

The next day we woke up and were a BIT groggy from the previous night's festivities, but we didn't let that hinder our plans!  We headed down for breakfast at about 8:30 AM, and enjoyed a fabulous selection of fruit, pancakes, and omelets.  The hotel offers a buffet and also a menu to order from.  We sipped the amazing coffee (I don't say that often, but this coffee and the coffee in Bangkok have been my absolute favorite) and enjoyed the early morning breeze and bird song.
After we finished our relaxing breakfast, we took a stroll around the grounds towards Victoria Falls.  The walk to the Falls takes about ten minutes or less, and you must go through the grounds of the Zambezi Sun to access the gate.  Admission is free if you are staying at the Royal Livingstone.  On our way we chatted with a few of the groundskeepers around the property - they were all so friendly and accommodating, and offered us rides on the golf carts (it's a large property) to find the resident giraffe and zebra.

As soon as we entered the gates to the Falls, we took the path along the edge which winds it's way up along the beautiful waterfall.  There are quite a few scenic outlooks to take photos, and you could even feel the mist of the Falls as you walk across the bridges.
My one word of caution here is to keep on the look out for baboons!  They are enormous, and the trees around the Falls are teeming with them.  Due to my previous monkey experiences (see the Bali post!) I was terrified of them.  I was happy to see that they mostly kept to themselves and didn't seem to get close to the tourists to steal food and other items, but we made sure to keep a safe distance and divert our eyes!
On the way back to the hotel, we decided to stop and shop for the one thing we both wanted to purchase in Zambia - malachite.  Malachite is a greenish-black stone that artisans in Africa carve into intricate animal statues, chess sets, you name it.  It is very heavy and can be pricey.

The curio shops by the Falls were in one word OVERWHELMING - and the shop owners are intense, similar to in India.  There are at least 30 stalls with vendors calling out to you, introducing themselves to you, pulling you into their shops for 'just a look.'  When I shop for curios I like to take a quick peek at everything for sale and then go back to the stalls with the items I like most but it was almost impossible to do that here.  Another thing that makes it tough is that the locals truly need the money.  Many people here live on less than a few dollars a day, and over 60% of the country is considered below the poverty line.  Zambians only have a life expectancy of 58 years!  This made me want to purchase something from everybody!  Especially because each of them were extremely nice people.  Although pushy they were not rude or aggressive at all.  It was hotter than Hades outside on this day, and we wrapped up our shopping before we got too dizzy!
Something I didn't realize before my visit is that certain goods we take for granted in the U.S. are luxuries here.  The shop owners were looking to trade their goods for pens, hair ties, bobby pins, perfumes, and clothing - especially tennis shoes.  If I return I will certainly bring some things to barter for goods rather than purchase them outright.  However, even if you barter is it a good thing to also provide a few kwacha because although the shop owners may now have a few items they need, they still need money to feed their family.  In the slow season, some of these people don't make any sales for days.

After shopping we headed back to the gate where the guard there had offered to call up a hotel employee to provide us a tour of the grounds and a chance to see the giraffes and zebras up close.  The driver that pulled up was incredibly sweet, and took us straight to the giraffe who were grazing quite far from the hotel itself.  There were five giraffe total, and they seemed pretty interested in us, although they did not get close and we were sure to keep our distance.
Next we grabbed our bathing suits and headed to the pool to relax for a bit before we had to meet our tour guide for the Zambezi sunset cruise mid-afternoon.
At 3:30 we headed to reception and awaited our driver, who arrived with Dad and Karen already in tow to take us to the David Livingstone Safari Lodge upriver on the banks of the Zambezi. 
We had quite a treat as we entered the lodge, because on the way in there was a huge herd of at least 30 full grown elephants running through the bush!  Even the staff at the David Livingstone Lodge all had their cameras out because it was such a beautiful sight.  The elephants were literally a few feet away from them at the boundary of the property!

The David Livingstone Lodge was gorgeous, and also has many great reviews.  It is on the Zambezi, but not close to the Falls so transport to view them would be necessary. Many of the river cruises depart from here, including our boat - the Lady Livingstone.
We were one of only a handful of people to enjoy the cruise this evening, and walked onboard to the sounds of a local African band.  We were immediately provided our drink of choice and took a seat at the tables at the very front of the boat.
The cruise itself was relaxing and we spotted quite a few crocs and hippo while enjoying the gorgeous orange sunset.  There were at least ten other ferries and boats along the Zambezi, but it was not overcrowded or loud at all.  This was the perfect, relaxing end to our day.  We enjoyed appetizers and the evening sounds of Africa, along with a few glasses of wine.

We headed back to our hotel that evening by about 8 PM, and Karen and Dad joined us for dinner before heading back to their hotel.  We popped our last bottle of bubbly from South Africa and then checked out the hotel bar for the first time, before calling it a night.  Once again, the staff in the bar was incredible, and so personable!

Day Fourteen: Friday, 4 September 2015
Zambia Day Three: Relaxation and Departure

On my last day in Zambia, Taryn and I once again enjoyed an amazing, relaxing breakfast.  We then sat by the pool and talked about our favorite memories from our African adventure.  Even though I was flying out at 1 PM, Taryn was joining Dad and Karen for an extra night in Zambia before returning to Jo'burg for a few additional nights.  I was ready to get home to my family, but knew I would miss Africa.  When you go to Africa, it is forever in your soul, and you will long to go back before too much time passes.  It's the smell, sound, friendliness of the people, music, food, drink, sights, animals. Africa is truly unlike anywhere else in the world and will always hold a place in my heart.

I always get such a surprised response when people find out that my Mom is from Zambia, and that my family lives in South Africa.  They often ask how her parents ended up there, and how my parents met.  So, before I get into the specifics of my latest visit, first a little history:

My Granny, along with her Mother and seven siblings (her husband was enlisted in the Polish army at the time), were taken captive by the Soviets at 3 AM in the middle of the winter of 1939 from their home in Pinsk, Poland (now part of Belarus) - they were part of the .  After their arrest they were thrown on a train for a journey that lasted six days to Archangel, right at the North Pole in Siberia, to work in labor camps - along this journey my Great-Grandmother lost her youngest child - a baby named Marisia - and had to leave her on the side of the train tracks in the snow.  Upon arrival my Granny was sent to the lumber mills while her sisters and brothers made bricks and worked crops to provide food for the Soviet troops.  Only five of the eight siblings that left that night in 1939 survived sickness, starvation, and inhuman conditions.  Corpses lined the pathways, and were only retrieved every three weeks.
The liberation of Germany in 1945 freed 11 million foreigners, called "displaced persons" – chiefly forced labourers and POWs.  In all, 1.6  million Polish workers and POWs were repatriated.  The refugees boarded a train and traveled every day for seven months, without sleeping or bathroom accommodations and barely any food, through Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan to the Caspian sea.  My Granny witnessed the deaths of so many people, who were buried hastily on stops along the route.  From here they boarded ships for Iran, where they lived in tent camps and the children were put into orphanages.  After a few months took army trucks to the Indian Ocean.  Next they were put onto cargo ships, stopping in Bombay, India.  In Bombay they boarded refugee ships to Durban, South Africa.  Along the entire way, no information was given, barely any food was provided, and no medicine was available.  Death was everywhere.

Trains then took them into Zambia and the remaining family members lived in a refugee camp.  The family was lucky, because so many did not survive this awful journey.  Finally, in 1947 the camp was disbanded and each family had the option to move to other British colonies or stay in Zambia.  It was at this point, 8 years after they were captured, that Viska - my Great Grandmother, decided never to move again.  She never heard from her husband again.  For more info click HERE.  Warning - it is graphic.

My Mom was born and raised in Lusaka, Zambia.  Much of her family now lives outside of Johannesburg in South Africa.  When I was younger my Mom, sister, and I traveled to visit them fairly often but after I started working I haven't had the opportunity to get back (my last visit was in 2005 after I graduated from college).

Fortunately, my Mom's brother and sister (Nick and Liz) and their wife and husband (Angie and John) were able to attend my sister's wedding in April of 2014, and it was then the plan to visit our family again was hatched!  At that time my Uncle John reserved us a few cottages in Kruger Park, which usually is fully booked a year in advance!  From there the itinerary took shape. We are fortunate to have family there that scoped out hotel options, organized game drives in Kruger, booked inter-country air tickets, and invited our extended family and friends for a traditional South African braii.

This was one of the only trips I've been on where I barely had to do any planning at all (apart from the Zambia portion of the trip) - it was nice although I am a bit of a control freak when it comes to spending my vacation time!  Johannesburg, Cape Town, and Kruger National Park were planned by family, with input from all of the participants on hotels, etc.  I then coordinated Taryn and I's last stop in Zambia. 

My Dad, stepmom, stepsister, sister, brother-in-law, and I finally set off for our adventure on the 21st of August.  To say we were excited is an understatement!  We knew we had a whirlwind trip planned with barely any rest but we were ready to go.

Day One:  Saturday, 22 August 2015
Homecoming!
We arrived on Saturday evening and were greeted by my Uncles and Aunts at the airport.  I can't describe how emotional it is to see my family - it is so hard to live this far apart.  Instantly I felt like I was 'in Africa.'  There is a different smell to Africa, a different pulse of energy, and a calming feeling to the constant background noise created by the doves (which makes me very nostalgic and brings me right back to my visits to Africa with my Mom).  We were taken to my Aunt Liz and Uncle John's home in Benoni where my cousins Tracy and Collin, their kids, and my second cousin Tommy and his wife were waiting with cold beers and tons of food.  The guys got into the Bourbon and we all caught up until about midnight - we all slept soundly that night after our fill of biltong and Castle Light!

Day Two: Sunday, 23 August 2015
Family Braii
Our first full day in South Africa was spent with family and friends over a traditional South African braii.  Food was cooked throughout the day, and everyone had plenty of wine and beer!  I was able to catch up with all of my cousins, second cousins, and Aunties (which I call my Mom's Aunts as well).  This was one of the only full days I could spend with my cousins who were in school and not able to travel South Africa with us. 

Day Three: Monday, 24 August 2015
Cape Town Day One
If you are visiting South Africa, you MUST visit Cape Town.  Cape Town is located on the south-western coast of the country, and is one of the most multicultural cities in the world.  In fact, Cape Town was rated as the best place in the world to visit by The New York Times in 2014.

Our group of ten took the two hour flight to Cape Town early and arrived around 11 AM.  We collected our rental cars (about $25/day) and headed to the Radisson Blu, situated on the water, close to the Victoria Alfred Waterfront.

After our arrival and check-in the group jumped into our cars and parked at the nearby V&A waterfront.  (Food and shopping galore).  We decided on  the City Grill for lunch, which specializes in South African cuisine - including warthog, zebra, and kudu.  The food, wine, and views were spectacular.  But most importantly, the company was amazing.  I had line fish with veggies and rose of course!  The wonderful thing about eating out in South Africa, even in Cape Town, is that the prices are great compared to restaurant in the U.S. based on the favorable exchange rate at the time (1 USD = 13 Rand). 
The day was slightly cloudly, so after lunch we headed to check out Camp's Bay Beach. 
From here we randomly popped into a local beach bar for a quick shot of Jameson to keep the party going.  The tab was only $18 USD for 12 shots!  After relaxing a bit, the fam headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner (we were truly enjoying all the good food Cape Town has to offer).  We decided to head back to the V&A waterfront to eat a well known restaurant with great views called Harbour House.  We truly enjoyed the first day, and ended up calling it a night fairly early because the next day we had our wine tour of Stellenbosch and Paarl.  Our plans for an early night were thwarted however, when we all got stuck in the hotel's elevator for 45 minutes!!!!

Day Four: Tuesday, 25 August 2015
Cape Town Day Two: Wine Tour!

At 8:30 am our group of ten was collected at the hotel by Lord G (Granwell) from Wine Flies Wine Tours for our full day tour of the wine regions around Cape Town.  Lord G took us through the Stellenbosch and Paarl regions and we stopped at five different wine farms along the way.  Joining our group were three Australians - we ended up being a pretty rowdy crowd after all that wine!  I absolutely love tours such as these because you travel through areas you most likely would not find on your own and meet different, interesting people from around the world!

Our first stop was at Fairview, located in Paarl.  Here we tried six different wine and cheese pairings, had a cellar tour, and enjoyed the beautiful grounds of this modern and well-run wine farm. Here they wanted us to 'coat our stomachs' for the long day ahead!  My favorite cheese was of course of the goat variety although there was an amazing creamy cranberry option that was pretty tasty! 
Our second stop was at Villiera, located in Stellenbosch.  Lord G discussed how different varieties of grapes are grown, cultivated, and prepared for the next season.  This winery specialized in sparkling wines (my favorite!), and we tasted quite a few different varieties.  The scenery was stunning.  It was still a bit chilly at this time but the wine tastings were warming us up a tad.  We were having such an amazing time as a family, enjoying good wine and catching up.  We could NOT stop laughing.  And, I think the Australians thought we were a bit crazy!
Our third stop was at Middelvlei.  As soon as we pulled up here, two huge dogs came bounding up to greet us.  The farm was beautiful and peaceful, and the sun was finally coming out!  Here we enjoyed a braii which included sausage, cheese and tomato sandwiches, salads, and butternut squash soup.  After our hearty meal we checked out the resident tortoises, chickens, goats, and ducks and then tasted some wonderful red wines during our cellar tour.
Our fourth stop was Lovane, where we tried wines paired with original chocolates.  The estate was surrounded by beautiful mountains and farms - one with a resident giraffe!  This was one of Taryn's favorite stops, and she ended up purchasing some of the wine and chocolate options.
Our final stop was Annandale, a wine estate owned by a retired Springbok player named Hempies du Toit.  The farm was more rustic than the others, and one of the oldest - it was settled in the late 1600's.  We were on our fifth stop at this time, so life was GOOD!  We had the opportunity to meet Hempies here - he walked in as we were doing our tastings!  He and I started a conversation about a mutual interest - horses - and he ended up introducing me to his Percheron and Fresian.  Of course I felt that I needed to jump on, so he gave me a leg up onto the Percheron.
We had such a great day that we didn't want it to end there!  (I think you can see it in our faces!)

On the way back into Cape Town after the tour, Lord G stopped at a store and I bought another two bottles of wine which we all passed around the van on the way back!  After we were dropped off at the hotel at around 5 PM, the family reconvened at the outdoor hotel bar and had drinks and dinner.  The memories made this day with my family are priceless!

Day Five: Wednesday, 26 August 2015
Cape Town Day Three: Sightseeing!

Finally the clouds cleared when we awoke on Wednesday, so our group headed straight to Table Mountain.  Fortunately none of us were hungover from the previous day's festivities!

The cable cars up to the top of the mountain close during bad weather, so timing is everything when it comes to getting on top of the mountain.  I have such fond memories of my Dad taking my sister and I when we were much younger, so we were excited to be going back up.  We arrived around 9 AM and were some of the first in line with tickets.   We took the five minute rotating cable car up 3,800 feet to the top and explored, took tons of photos, and looked everywhere for dassies!  We finally found just a few.

Can you believe this is the closest living relative to the elephant?  For real!

After Table Mountain we headed to Hout Bay for lunch and a bit of relaxation.  Hout Bay is gorgeous - the water is so incredibly clear.  There are a few fish markets, curio shops, and restaurants dotting the shoreline.  We ate at the Wharfside Grill where I enjoyed a (whole) bottle of Sauvignon Blanc for less than a glass of wine at a restaurant in DC!  We played with the local sea lions who were happy to swim up for a piece of fish. 
After lunch we continued driving up the coastline, and stopped at impressive scenic overlooks.
(One stop was a pop-a-squat break after all that wine!)

Our next adventure was to Boulders Beach, widely known due to the colony of African penguins that reside here (yes, there are penguins in Africa!).  On my last visit you were able to climb onto the boulders and get up close and personal with the penguins, but they have since made the area a wildlife reserve to protect the endangered animals.  On our walk down to the beach we shopped for curios and Taryn and Uncle John got a bit of ice cream.
 I was really excited to see the penguins.....
This area is great if you are looking for souvenirs.  There are quite a few vendors who have set up shop as you enter the beach.  Bring a bunch of cash, and divide what they're asking in two!  I found the most amazing paintings and purchased three from the same artist - a giraffe, lion, and elephant. (Currently being framed).  They ended up being less than $20 USD each.

By this time the sun was beginning to set, so we headed back to the hotel.  There we grabbed another round of drinks, and Taryn, Collin, and I made plans to head to one of the best known streets in Cape Town for dinner.  We ended up eating at Fork on Long Street.  It is a tapas spot with each plate costing only $4-6.  Here we tried ostrich and kudu, and it was delicious.  The service was amazing - when we asked which bar they would recommend us stopping into after dinner, the staff actually gave us a free drive over.
We headed back to the hotel by 10:30 PM because we had a fairly long, exciting day ahead of us....

Day Six: Thursday, 27 August 2015
Cape Town Day Four: Great White Shark Cage Diving

Thursday came early for us, as we had to check out of our hotel rooms and be ready for our ride by 4:40 AM!  We had arranged private transport to Gansbaii, the Great White shark capital of the world, to go cage diving with Great Whites!  Because our flight left Cape Town at 2:45ish, we had to make sure and be at the airport by 1:30.... and Gansbaii is almost a two hour drive away.

Our driver was so friendly and kind, and he got us to Sharklady Adventures by 7 AM.  Here we enjoyed a good breakfast with a LOT of coffee while we were briefed on safety and the rules for getting into the cage to view Great Whites.  Our shark expert was Lance Coetzee, and he wasn't messing around.  He was strict, and that made us feel as safe as we could be!  The group of 18 was split into four groups who would enter the cage together - and of course Taryn got us into the first group!  We were all a bit nervous, but more so of the cold water.  It was winter in South Africa and although Jo-burg and Kruger were in the 90's, Cape Town was in the 50-60's. 

We all climbed onto the boat and set off just a short ways off of the marina and the guys got to work chumming for sharks.  On the way out, we had a ton of these large marine birds following the boat, and the crew were feeding them pieces of fish.
It wasn't long before our group was called to suit up.  We pulled on our dry suits, hoods, and boots and psyched ourselves up for the cold temps and sharks.  At first we were worried we wouldn't see any - which happens often - but soon enough we were told to get into the cage - a shark had been spotted!  We all kind of sank into the cages and took a few moments to adjust, as the water was fiercely cold even with the suits on.  We searched for the bars in the cage we were told to lock our toes under and before we knew it, we hear "Go down in front!".  As soon as we submerged we saw our first Great White biting on the bait and headed directly for the cage.  It was extreme.  I caught it all on my Go Pro and you can hear us screaming, and yes.... a few choice curse words were thrown in.  We had the luck of seeing at least five passes of the Great White before the next group was called in.
The boat headed in by about 10:30 and as soon as we got onto dry land we ran to our driver.  He took off and although we missed the video produced by the shark tour company, we did make it to the airport by 1:15!  We didn't have the chance to shower or change, but the flight to Jo'burg is only two hours.

When we arrived back in Jo'burg that evening, the family enjoyed some lasagna for dinner and a few beers before we all headed in for an early night.  Cape Town was amazing, and we fit so much in in such a short amount of time that we were all exhausted.

Day Seven: Friday, 28 August 2015
Jo'burg: Lion Park

The next day my two second cousins - Jade and Troy - were allowed to skip school and head to the Lion Park with Karen, Taryn, Shelby, Collin and I - it is about 40 minutes outside of the city.  This was the same place that the American woman was killed by a lion recently while leaning out of an open window taking photos.  Although these lions are in a 'park', the various lion prides do not interact with humans and are allowed to live as 'wild' as possible (minus game killing).  There have been a few deaths over the years here because people believe them to be tame.  Anyways, we paid the $20 USD for the visit which gives you access to most of the grounds, either a self drive or guided drive through the park (there are three prides), and a quick encounter with cubs.  You can also do a "Walk with the Lions" tour here which costs about $60.

When we first arrived we headed to feed the resident giraffes, and also ended up feeding an ostrich that had managed to escape from his area of the park.  The staff here are friendly and helpful, and you're given pretty much free range inside this area.

After feeding the giraffe we waited our turn to see the baby lions.  Eight people are allowed in with the 4-5 cubs at one time.  We enjoyed petting the cats, even though one was pretty wound up!  His cute baby lion roar was so cute!  They were mostly sleepy as it was the middle of the day, but we had a great time interacting with them.
After this we opted for the guided tour, which gives you access to all three prides rather than the one pride you can see on self-drive.  One of the other two that is closed currently is the pride with the lioness that killed the tourist.  The guide actually pointed the exact lioness out, which was slightly frightening.  She was definitely the most active in the pride and extremely large.

Our favorite pride are the white lions.  They are gorgeous with their light colored eyes and bright fur.
After the Lion Park we headed back into Jo'burg and headed to my Aunt Angie's sister's home for a wonderful dinner!  Chantel and David Wright hosted a fun dinner with great music and dancing.  Their home was beautiful!  I think from the picture below you can tell what a great time was had by all!
We even brought my second cousin Rory over to party with us even though his Dad, my cousin Colin, couldn't make it.

Day Eight: Saturday, 29 August 2015
Safari Day One: Kruger National Park

The next morning we were up bright and early for our ~ five hour drive to Kruger (or you could fly into Nelspruit).  Kruger National Park is located on the eastern part of South Africa, bordering Mozambique.  It is one of the largest game parks, covering almost 8,000 square miles and about 220 miles long from North to South.
The winter months, or dry season, is the best time to view game, because the bush is less dense and animals are slightly easier to spot.  When staying inside Kruger, you must make reservations as early as possible.  There is up to a one year wait list for some of the most desired camp locations, although tour companies will often reserve in advance and then rent them out for a higher cost. (21 on-site camps available and 15 private lodges).  You can go anywhere from roughing it to white gloved service here.

There are 147 species of mammals (all of the Big 5 are here: elephant, leopard, cape buffalo, lion, and rhino), 517 species of birds, and 114 species of reptiles, including extremely poisonous snakes like the Black Mamba.  There are also 50 species of fish and 33 species of amphibians - even a bull shark has been caught in the rivers bordering the park.  At rest stops before you enter the park, be sure to pick up a Kruger guide to help you identify and 'tick-off' the species you see while in the park - it's an awesome keepsake.

There are nine entrances to the park - we came in at the Crocodile Bridge gate, at the most Eastern entrance.  From here, our drive to Berg-en-dal Rest Camp took about 3 hours, because as soon as we entered the park we started game watching.  Each region of Kruger hosts different species, but we got incredibly lucky on our stay and saw almost every animal we searched for - other than the elusive leopard.
From the end of the bridge we started to see African animals.  Of course some of the first you will spot are impala, which we called LBJs - little brown jacks.  They are EVERYWHERE.  You see so many impala that you actually stop slowing down to view them!
From this first day's drive we had a close encounter with an elephant, found a few people OUT OF THEIR CARS looking at lions with binoculars laying on the river bank (a Kruger guide with a shotgun was keeping watch - but you are NOT supposed to get out of the car), saw a few huge kudu bucks, and spotted quite a few giraffe.

This guy was RIGHT next to our car!

Kudu Buck

After our drive we headed to our camp to get checked in, enjoy a cold beer, and start cooking our braii.  There are restaurants in Kruger, but they don't have many options.  Most people bring in all of the food they plan on eating at their time in the park.

Our cottages were basic brick structures, but clean and spacious with brick lanais to relax outside on.  We set up shop at Liz and John's 'house', where we spent each of the three evenings chatting with family excitedly about all that we saw that day.  There were monkey visitors nightly, and the sounds of African animals all around.  Although Berg-en-dal is fenced in, there are stories of the occasional leopard inside and we saw plenty of baboon.

Found this scorpion on my walkway!

Day Nine: Sunday, 30 August 2015
Safari Day Two: Organized Game Drive

The next day we had organized a game drive through park services for Dad, Karen, Collin, Taryn, Shelby, and myself.  Our driver picked us up at about 5:30 AM in an open safari vehicle.  Until sunrise we drove through the park with spotlights, while each of us on the outside kept our eyes out for shining eyes in the bush.  We saw tons of LBJs, warthogs, and a few giraffe.  As it got brighter out, the game viewing got even better.  It was still very cool in the morning, so the animals were quite active.  Our driver was amazing at spotting animals we would never know were there.  She could call out a rhino from hundreds of feet away.
Mid-day we came across another car on the road.  Here in Kruger passersby stop to roll down their windows and chat about what they've seen and where.  There are even maps at rest camps where people can identify with colored magnets the types of animals they've seen.  The driver told us that there was a pride of young male lions just up the dirt pathway!  Lions are a rarity in Kruger because they tend to stay off the beaten trail and sleep during the day.  Sure enough, we pulled up a few hundred feet and saw the first of three lions that were playing by the riverbed.
Our driver was the absolute best at getting us close to the action.  I was wary because there are no windows in the vehicle, and one of the lions ended up coming onto the dirt path and walking right next to our safari vehicle!  It was one of the most heart-pumping moments of my life.
Day Ten: Monday, 31 August 2015
Safari Day Three: Family Day Drive & Brunch, Night Game Drive

The next day we set out in three cars down a path we heard had a watering hole.  It ended up being literally the supreme game spotting path of the Kruger visit.  We finally saw the Cape Buffalo - and not just one or two but a whole entire herd of thousands!  We encountered lions once again, as a pride crossed the path right in front of our vehicle - probably headed to the watering hole themselves to prepare for an evening hunt.  Rhino were standing right next to buffalo as they drank their fill. 

On the last day of our safari our group had to say goodbye to Nick, Angie, Karen, Shelby, and Collin early in the morning.  Collin and Shelby were headed back to the US this evening, so they drove straight to Jo'burg to get to the airport by 4 PM.  We were sad to say goodbye!

Our group which included Dad, Karen, Taryn, John, Liz, and I headed out through a different gate to see a different variety of animals.  After a few hours, we headed out of the park through the Paul Kruger Gate.  At this gate there is a curio shop that holds items made from locals in the area.  Here we bought masks and a few giraffe carvings.  While spending time at this gate, a male warthog breezed through for a bite!
We decided to exit through this gate so that we could take the 'long way' home to Jo'burg and drive through areas such as Hazyview, Sabie, and through the mountains.  It was a gorgeous drive.  We stopped in Sabie for a bite at the African Elephant Restaurant.  Sabie is known by adventure seekers for the miles of dirt bike trails, white water rafting, and hiking the gorges.  Here I had trout, which is farmed in the area.

We made it home by about six in the evening, and everyone was exhausted and happy.  We enjoyed pizza together on our final night in Jo'burg.  It was bittersweet that our time in South Africa was coming to an end.  Although we were excited for Zambia, I knew that it may be years before I would once again see my family.

Day Twelve: Wednesday, 2 September 2015
Zambia Day One!

On Wednesday we woke early to pack, and say our goodbyes.  Although my sister, Dad, and Karen would be returning to Jo'burg after Zambia, I would be heading right back to the US.  I spent my last few tearful moments with my aunts and uncles, and said goodbye to my cousins.  The time I spent with them was perfect.  They truly spoiled us, and we enjoyed every single second.  My Uncle Nick took us to the airport, and we both struggled to keep the tears at bay. 

We headed off for Zambia at 10:30 that morning.  Part II of this post details our Zambian adventure!